Hooked on Galicia: spectacular seafood … but not without a fight

We are in a boat off the Galician coastal town of O Grove, in north-west Spain, and a fisherman in yellow oilskins named Felix Piñeiro is lifting octopus pots out of the steel-grey waters. Everything around us – the laid-back peninsula town, its neighbouring islands – is obscured by heavy mist, focusing our … social experiment …

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